Welcome to Little Jerusalem, the thriving community of Jews deep in the mountains of Muslim Azerbaijan
The mountains are iced with white snow and there is soft blossom on the nut trees. Broad, grey and bouldered, the Gudialcay river rushes east towards the Caspian Sea; a few miles north is the border with Dagestan. This is Azerbaijan, where a hot morning sun glares off the riverside mosque’s tin roof. The ancient town of Guba is known for its carpets and its walnut halva. Less known is the Jewish town on the Gudialcay’s left bank.
Gyrmyzy Gasaba (in Russian, Krasnaya Sloboda or “Red Roofs”) is perhaps the world’s only all-Jewish town outside Israel. Where Guba seems poor and perhaps a little care-worn, Gyrmyzy Gasaba appears to be prosperous and thriving – 3,600 mountain Jews live here, wearing their Judiasm with pride, and without fear. “Shalom!” I’m greeted, time and again: “Shalom Aleichem!” Boys in kipot bustle about, and each house displays at least one large Magen David.