First Ascent of the Matterhorn

Zermatt’s place in history was tragically secured with the first ascent of the Matterhorn in the 19th century. As the surrounding peaks were climbed in the 1830’s to 50’s, there developed intense competition to conquer the Matterhorn, which for many years had been considered “unclimbable”. The English climber Edward Whymper had made several abortive attempts from the Italian side, when in 1865, he learned that the Rev. Charles Hudson was to attempt the Matterhorn from Zermatt.
Hurrying over the Theodulpass, he joined forces together with Lord Francis Douglas, George Hadow, and the guides Michel Croz (from Chamonix), and Peter Taugwalder and his son (from Zermatt).

On the 14th of July the ascent was triumphantly achieved. However during the descent, just below the summit on the north face, Hadow slipped. In three disastrous seconds, Hadow fell onto the unprepared Croz, subsequently pulling Hudson and Douglas away from the face. The elder Taugwalder belayed the rope round a rock; but it snapped and four of the seven climbers fell thousands of feet to their deaths down the north wall.

News of the triumph and tragedy flashed around the world, and Zermatt and the Matterhorn have held a special fascination for many people ever since. N.b.You can join our virtual climb of the Matterhorn by clicking here. read more

Categories: Switzerland

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