The publication of the Kyoto, Osaka and Kobe guide brings the total of three Michelin star restaurant to 29, four ahead of France.

Those of us who have been trying in vain to find a decent restaurant in France for the last ten years will think this tacit acknowledgement has been a long time coming. Even the chefs agree. When I broached the topic with France’s Alain Ducasse, (who himself holds three stars at his Paris, London and Monte Carlo restaurants) he shrugged, “that perfect little restaurant in Provence, it doesn’t exist any more. Twenty five years ago, maybe. Not now.”